How to Lay the Base for a Brick Path

A brick path looks charming for about five minutes if the base is sloppy. Then the bricks start wobbling like they’re
auditioning for a trampoline routine. The good news: you don’t need magicjust a solid, well-compacted base, the right
materials, and a little patience (plus one very loud machine that will make you feel like you’ve joined a construction crew).

This guide focuses on the most important part of the whole project: the base. Get this right and your brick
path can stay flat, drain properly, and survive seasons of rain, heat, and foot traffic without sinking, spreading, or growing
surprise “speed bumps.”

What “a Proper Base” Actually Means

For most DIY brick paths, you’re building a flexible pavement system:
compacted soil (subgrade) + compacted crushed stone (base) + a thin, screeded layer of bedding sand (setting bed).
The base does three big jobs:

• Spreads weight so bricks don’t press into soil and settle unevenly.
• Drains water so moisture doesn’t linger under bricks and cause heaving or erosion.
• Locks everything together so the path stays where you put itno drifting “brick migration.”

Tools and Materials You’ll Want Nearby (So You Don’t Start “Borrowing” Kitchen Utensils)

Tools

• Shovel (flat and pointed), rake, wheelbarrow
• Stakes, string line, tape measure
• Level (2–4 ft) or a long straight board + level
• Hand tamper and/or a plate compactor (renting is smart)
• Screed board (a straight 2×4) + two screed rails (pipes or straight 1″ conduit)
• Rubber mallet (for later, but you’ll want it ready)

Materials

• Crushed stone paver base (often “3/4" minus,” “crusher run,” or “road base”)
• Bedding sand (commonly “concrete sand,” not play sand)
• Edge restraint (plastic/metal edging with spikes, or a brick/concrete edge system)
• Optional: geotextile/landscape fabric for weak soils or muddy sites

Step 1: Plan the Path and Set Your Grade (Drainage Is Non-Negotiable)

Before you dig, decide where water should go. Your brick path should typically slope away from buildings so runoff
doesn’t head toward your foundation. A common target is about 1/8" to 1/4" drop per foot of run.
That’s enough to encourage drainage without making the path feel like a ski jump.

Quick example: For a 20-foot-long path, a 1/8" per foot slope equals
2.5 inches of total drop. Set string lines along the edges of the path and use a level to confirm the slope
before you commit to excavation.

Mark the footprint

• Stake the path edges and run string lines to outline the shape.
• Add a little extra width (about 6" total) for edging and wiggle room during base work.
• If the path curves, use a garden hose to “sketch” the curve, then stake it.

Step 2: Dig to the Correct Depth (This Is Where Most “Why Is It Sinking?” Stories Begin)

Excavation depth isn’t guessworkit’s math. You’re making space for the brick thickness, bedding sand, and compacted base.
For a typical pedestrian brick path:

• Compacted crushed stone base: 4–6 inches (more in freeze/thaw areas or soft soils)
• Bedding sand (screeded): ~1 inch
• Brick thickness: often ~2–2 1/4 inches (measure your actual brick/paver)

Rule of thumb: Dig about base + sand + brick, plus a little extra (around 1/2") because
compaction and fine-tuning happen. If you want the finished brick surface to sit flush with surrounding grade, use that target
as your reference when setting string height.

Remove the “bad” stuff

Organic material (sod, roots, topsoil) compresses over time. Remove it completely. If you leave pockets of soft soil, the base
will settle unevenly no matter how fancy your brick pattern is.

Material quantity example (so you don’t buy three bags and hope)

For a 3 ft × 20 ft path (60 sq ft):

• 4" base: 60 × (4/12) = 20 cu ft ≈ 0.74 cu yd (buy ~0.8 cu yd with waste)
• 1" sand: 60 × (1/12) = 5 cu ft ≈ 0.19 cu yd (buy ~0.2 cu yd with waste)

Step 3: Prep and Compact the Subgrade (Your Soil Is the Foundation’s Foundation)

Rake the bottom of the excavation smooth, then compact the soil. If the soil is very dry and dusty, lightly misting can help
compaction. If it’s wet and squishy, stop and let it drycompacting mud just makes future problems more creative.

Fix soft spots now

If you step and the soil “gives,” dig out that soft area a bit deeper and replace it with compacted crushed stone. Think of it as
patching potholes before they form.

Optional: use landscape fabric strategically

Fabric can help separate weak or muddy soils from your base so stone doesn’t disappear into the earth over time. It’s not mandatory
in every yard, but it’s a strong upgrade when you have clay, poor drainage, or you’re building in a spot that stays damp.

Step 4: Install the Crushed Stone Base in Lifts (Yes, LiftsNot One Giant Dump)

The base is where durability is born. Use a crushed aggregate that compacts tightlytypically a mix of stone sizes down to fines
(often called “3/4" minus”). Avoid round gravel like pea gravel for the main base; it doesn’t lock together well and can shift.

Add base in layers (lifts)

1. Spread 2–3 inches of base material evenly.
2. Compact it with a plate compactor (multiple passes), especially along edges.
3. Repeat until you reach your planned base thickness (usually 4–6 inches for walkways).

Why lifts matter: A compactor can’t effectively densify a deep layer all at once. Thin layers compact more uniformly,
which means fewer low spots later.

Maintain the slope while you build

Check grade constantlyafter each liftusing your string lines and level. It’s much easier to correct slope during base installation
than after bricks are down and you’re staring at a puddle that refuses to leave.

Compact like you mean it

Make several slow passes with the compactor. For tight corners and near stakes, use a hand tamper. Your goal is a base that feels
firm underfoot, not spongy. If you’re wondering whether you compacted enough, do one more pass. (This is the hardscaping version
of “have you tried turning it off and on again?”)

Step 5: Add Edge Restraint (Because Bricks Love to Wander)

Edge restraint keeps the bricks from spreading outward over time. Without it, joints open up, corners lift, and the path gradually
becomes “rustic” in a way you didn’t plan.

When to install edging

Many DIYers install edging after the base is compacted and graded, but before bedding sand goes downso the edging has a firm
foundation and doesn’t shift. Follow the edging manufacturer’s instructions for spike spacing and placement.

Step 6: Screed the Bedding Sand (Thin, Even, and Untouched Like a Freshly Groomed Ski Slope)

Bedding sand is not the place to “fix” a wavy base. It should be a consistent, thin layercommonly about 1 inch.
If your base isn’t flat and properly graded, correct the base, not the sand.

How to screed sand correctly

1. Place two parallel screed rails (pipes) on the compacted base at the right height.
2. Pour sand between the rails and roughly level with a rake.
3. Pull a straight 2×4 across the rails to create a smooth, even layer.
4. Carefully remove rails and fill the voids with sand, smoothing gently.

Important: Don’t walk all over the screeded sand. Work from one end and lay bricks as you go, stepping on the
compacted base or on already-laid bricks.

Step 7: Quick Base Check Before You Lay Bricks

• Flatness: Lay a straight board across the area. Big dips mean you need to adjust the base (not pile sand).
• Slope: Confirm the grade still drains the way you intended.
• Height: Make sure the finished brick surface will be flush (or slightly proud) of the surrounding grade.

If you want extra peace of mind, lightly spray water across the base area and see where it wants to go. You’re not doing a
laboratory testjust confirming you didn’t accidentally build a birdbath.

Common Base Mistakes (So You Don’t Have to Learn Them the Hard Way)

1) Not digging deep enough

Shallow excavation leads to thin base. Thin base leads to settling. Settling leads to you redoing the project while muttering,
“But I compacted it!” (You did. It just wasn’t thick enough.)

2) Skipping compactionor doing it once and calling it a day

Compaction is the difference between “professional” and “Pinterest fail.” Compact the subgrade and each base lift thoroughly.

3) Using the wrong aggregate

Round stones shift; crushed aggregate locks. Choose a well-graded crushed base designed for pavers and walkways.

4) Making the sand layer too thick

Thick sand can settle unevenly. Keep it thin and consistent, and correct problems in the base layer instead.

5) No edge restraint

Bricks don’t hold themselves in place forever. Edging is the quiet hero that prevents long-term spreading and joint gaps.

Wrap-Up: The Base Is the Job (The Bricks Are the Reward)

A great brick path isn’t “laid” so much as it’s engineeredjust at a friendly, DIY scale. When you excavate properly,
compact the soil, build a crushed-stone base in lifts, maintain a consistent slope, and screed a thin sand bed, your bricks get to
do what they do best: look classic and stay put.

Take your time on the base. Your future self will thank you every time you walk across a path that feels solid, drains well, and
doesn’t try to rearrange itself after the first big rain.

Field Notes: of Real-World Experience (A.K.A. Things You Only Learn After Moving a Lot of Gravel)

The first “experience” most people have with a brick path base is discovering that dirt is heavier than it looks. The second
experience is discovering that gravel is heavier than dirt. By the third wheelbarrow, you’ll have a deep respect for anyone who
hardscapes for a livingand you’ll start making suspiciously friendly eye contact with the plate compactor rental desk.

One lesson that shows up on almost every project: the yard is never as level as it seems. What looks flat from the
porch can be off by inches over a short run. That’s why string lines feel “extra” right up until they save you from building a
path that drains toward your house. Gravity is consistent. Our eyeballs, less soespecially after lunch.

Another classic: the “mystery soft spot.” You’ll dig, everything looks fine, and then one section compresses like a
memory foam mattress. Don’t ignore it. Dig it out deeper than the rest, add crushed stone, compact it well, and blend it back into
the surrounding grade. People who skip this step end up with the famous “one brick that always rocks,” which will eventually
become the brick everyone steps on first.

Compaction is where confidence gets builtsometimes too much confidence. A common beginner move is dumping the full base depth
in one go and driving the compactor over it like you’re mowing the lawn. The base may look compacted, but deeper stone can
stay loose. Installing in 2–3 inch lifts feels slower, but it’s the difference between a base that behaves and one that settles in
unpredictable ways. If you want a satisfying moment, watch how much a “finished” layer drops after a few good passes. That’s proof
your path would have dropped laterafter you’d already laid the bricks.

Here’s a surprisingly practical trick: buy (or borrow) a long straight board. A 2×4 that you trust is like having a
lie detector for your base. Slide it over the compacted stone and you’ll instantly find high spots and dips. Fix them before sand.
Sand is not spackle, and it will not forgive you.

Finally, expect the project to reward patience. The best-looking paths usually come from someone who checked grade “one more time,”
compacted “one more pass,” and resisted the urge to rush the sand bed. Do that, and your brick path will feel solid underfoot for
yearsplus you’ll gain a new superpower: the ability to judge other people’s walkways with quiet, professional-level suspicion.