How to Get Rid of Mold Smell in Washing Machines

Your washing machine has exactly one job: make things smell less like a gym bag.
So when the washer itself starts giving off that moldy, mildewy “basement bouquet,” it feels personal.
The good news: the stink is usually coming from a few predictable hangout spotsgaskets, dispensers, filters,
and that sneaky layer of soap scum + biofilm you can’t see but can definitely smell.

Below is a deep-clean plan (front-load and top-load), plus a prevention routine that keeps the funk from coming back.
No mystical potions requiredjust the right steps, in the right order, with a tiny bit of consistency.
(Yes, I know. Consistency. The villain of every self-improvement story.)

Why washing machines get that moldy smell

A mold smell usually isn’t “the washer is dirty” in a general wayit’s “the washer is damp in very specific places.”
Odor builds up when moisture + residue + low airflow create a cozy little resort for mildew, bacteria, and biofilm.
Here are the most common causes:

1) Moisture that never fully dries

Front-loaders are famous for this because the door seal (gasket) can trap water in its folds.
Top-loaders can also stay humid if the lid stays closed and the tub never airs out.

2) Too much detergent (or too much softener)

Extra detergent doesn’t mean extra clean. It can mean extra residueespecially in HE (high-efficiency) machines.
That residue feeds odor-causing buildup and clings to the drum, hoses, and drain path.

3) Cold-water and quick cycles only

Cold and “eco” cycles are great for clothes and energy bills, but they don’t always dissolve oils and grime completely.
Over time, the leftovers accumulate and start to smell like a science experiment.

4) Hidden gunk: dispensers, filters, and drains

Detergent drawers, bleach/softener cups, and drain pump filters can hold standing water and sludge.
If your washer has a filter trap, it can collect lint, coins, hair, and mystery goo that smells… confident.

First: find where the smell is coming from (60-second sniff test)

• Door gasket (front-load): Pull back the rubber folds. If it’s slimy or spotty, that’s your culprit.
• Detergent drawer/dispenser: If it smells like a swamp when you open it, it needs a scrub.
• Drum: If the drum smells “musty clean,” there’s likely biofilm.
• Drain pump filter (many front-loaders): If your washer drains slowly or smells sour, check here.
• Drain hose/standpipe: If you cleaned everything and it still reeks, the odor may be downstream.

Safety note before you start (seriouslyread this)

Choose one main cleaner for the deep-clean cycle: either chlorine bleach or white vinegar.
Never combine bleach with vinegar, ammonia, or “mystery cleaners” from under the sink.
Use gloves, ventilate the laundry area, and follow your washer manual when in doubt.

What you’ll need

• Microfiber cloths or old towels
• An old toothbrush or small scrub brush
• Dish soap
• White vinegar or liquid chlorine bleach (pick one for the tub cycle)
• Baking soda (optional odor helper)
• A bucket or shallow pan (helpful for filter draining)
• A flashlight (for gasket folds and filter areas)
• Washer cleaning tablet/powder (optional, but convenient)

How to remove mold smell from a front-load washer (step-by-step deep clean)

Front-loaders usually smell because the gasket and drain path stay damp. This plan hits both.
Set aside about 30–60 minutes of hands-on time (most of it is waiting while cycles run).

Step 1: Empty the washer and clean the gasket (the “stink headquarters”)

1. Remove all laundry. Check the drum for socks pretending they don’t live there.
2. Pull back the gasket folds and wipe out standing water, hair, lint, and residue.
3. Mix warm water + a few drops of dish soap. Scrub the gasket folds and the door glass.
   For visible mold spots, use a small amount of your chosen disinfecting approach:
   • Bleach option: A diluted bleach solution on a cloth/brush, then wipe and rinse well.
   • Vinegar option: Spray diluted vinegar (or vinegar + water), let sit briefly, scrub, then wipe.
4. Dry the gasket thoroughly. This part matters more than your feelings about moisture.

Step 2: Remove and scrub the detergent drawer/dispenser

1. Pull the detergent drawer out (most have a release tab).
2. Soak it in warm, soapy water for 10–15 minutes.
3. Scrub corners, siphon tubes, and any slimy areas with a toothbrush.
4. Rinse and dry. Wipe the dispenser cavity inside the washer too.

Step 3: Clean the drain pump filter (if your washer has one)

Many front-loaders have a small access door near the bottom front. Inside is a filter trap.
This is where the washer stores lint, coins, buttons, and your lost earringplus enough gunk to power a horror movie sequel.

1. Turn off the machine and unplug if recommended by the manual.
2. Place a shallow pan or towels under the filter area.
3. Open the access panel. Slowly twist the filter cap to let water drain out.
4. Remove the filter, clean debris, then wash it with warm, soapy water.
5. Wipe the filter housing (inside the cavity) and reinstall the filter securely.

Step 4: Run a hot “Clean Washer” cycle (the biofilm breakup)

Now that the smelly parts are physically cleaned, run a cleaning cycle to flush the inside and drain lines.
Pick one method below:

Option A: Washer cleaner tablet (easy mode)

1. Place the tablet in the drum (follow package directions).
2. Select Clean Washer, Tub Clean, or the hottest/longest cycle available.
3. When done, run an extra rinse if the product suggests it or if you notice residue.

Option B: Bleach cycle (powerful, but follow rules)

1. Set the washer to the hottest cycle or the Clean Washer cycle.
2. Add liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach dispenser (or as your manual directs).
3. Run the full cycle. Consider an extra rinse afterward to ensure it’s fully flushed.

Option C: Vinegar + baking soda (natural-ish, but still effective when done correctly)

1. Run a hot cycle with vinegar added as directed by your washer type (often via the detergent dispenser).
2. After that cycle finishes, run a separate hot cycle with a small amount of baking soda in the drum.
3. Important: Do not combine vinegar and bleachever.

Step 5: Dry it out like you mean it

• Wipe the gasket and door glass dry.
• Leave the door open for several hours (or overnight) to fully air out.
• Leave the detergent drawer cracked open so it can dry too.

How to remove mold smell from a top-load washer (step-by-step deep clean)

Top-loaders can smell musty tooespecially if you use lots of cold cycles, too much detergent, or keep the lid closed.
The main difference: you don’t have a front gasket, but you may have more buildup around the tub ring or agitator.

Step 1: Clean the dispensers and the top rim

1. Remove any bleach/softener cups and wash them in warm, soapy water.
2. Wipe under the lid and around the top rim (soap residue collects here).

Step 2: Run a tub-clean cycle (or hottest long cycle)

Use one of these approachesagain, pick one main cleaner:

• Washer cleaner tablet: Drop it in the tub and run the tub-clean cycle.
• Bleach method: Add bleach as your manual directs and run the hottest cycle.
• Vinegar + baking soda method: Run separate cycles (not mixed) to cut residue and neutralize odor.

Step 3: If your washer has an agitator, check for trapped gunk

Some agitator caps pop off, and some lint filters are hidden inside. If you can safely remove the cap per the manual,
clean any residue and reassemble.

Step 4: Air it out

Leave the lid open after the cycle so the tub can dry. This one habit prevents about 80% of future stink.

If it still smells after a deep clean

If you’ve cleaned the gasket/dispenser/filter and run a proper hot cleaning cycle, but the odor keeps coming back,
the issue may be drainage or stagnant water somewhere in the system.

• Check the drain hose: Kinks or improper height can slow draining and leave water sitting.
• Look for standing water: A slow drain pump or partial clog can keep the bottom damp.
• Check the standpipe: Sometimes the smell is actually from the household drain, not the washer.
• Run a spin/drain cycle: If water is lingering, address drainage before doing more cleaning cycles.
• When to call a pro: If you see leaks, repeated standing water, or persistent sewer-like odors.

How to keep the mold smell from coming back (a simple routine)

You don’t need to deep-clean weekly. You just need a few small habits that keep moisture and residue from settling in.
Think of it like brushing your teethexcept your washer won’t guilt-text you if you skip a day. It’ll just… smell.

After every load (30 seconds)

• Remove clothes promptly (wet laundry marinating = instant musty vibes).
• Leave the door/lid open to dry the drum.
• For front-loaders: wipe moisture from the gasket folds.

Weekly (2–5 minutes)

• Wipe the door glass and gasket (front-load).
• Rinse and dry the detergent drawer area if it stays wet.
• Check for detergent drips or softener sludge and wipe it away.

Monthly (set a reminderfuture you will be grateful)

• Run a Clean Washer/Tub Clean cycle with a washer cleaner tablet or your manual-approved method.
• Clean the detergent drawer thoroughly.
• If your model has a drain pump filter, inspect and rinse it.

Detergent habits that reduce odor fast

• Use HE detergent in HE machines.
• Measure detergentdon’t eyeball it like a cooking show host.
• Go easy on fabric softener (it’s a residue magnet in many washers).
• Occasionally run a hot wash (even if you love cold cycles).

Quick FAQ

Does vinegar work for mold smell in a washing machine?

Vinegar can help reduce odor and break down some residue, especially when used in a hot cycle.
It’s best as part of a routine and paired with physical cleaning (gasket, dispenser, filter).
Don’t use it at the same time as bleach, and avoid overuse if your washer manual warns against it.

Is bleach safe to use in a washing machine?

Bleach is commonly recommended by manufacturers for cleaning cycles when used correctly.
Follow your manual for where to add it and how much to use, run a hot cycle, and consider an extra rinse.
Never mix bleach with other cleaners like vinegar or ammonia.

Why do front-load washers smell worse?

The door gasket can trap water, lint, and detergent residue. If the door stays closed after use,
the interior stays humid and odor-causing growth can develop faster.

My clothes smell fine, but the washer smells bad. How?

Odor can live in the gasket folds, detergent drawer, or drain filter without strongly transferring to clothingyet.
Treat it early. Waiting turns “slightly musty” into “why does my laundry room smell haunted?”

Real-world experiences: what people run into (and what actually works)

Below are common scenarios homeowners and renters share when they’re battling washer odor.
These are composite “real life” examplesbecause the mold smell problem is so common it practically has its own fan club.

Experience #1: “I cleaned the drum twice and it still smells like wet towels.”

This is a classic front-loader situation. The drum looks shiny, so you assume the problem is solvedbut the smell returns
the moment you close the door. In many cases, the real stink is hiding in the gasket folds and the detergent drawer cavity.
The fix that tends to work: physically cleaning the gasket (pulling back every fold), removing the dispenser drawer to scrub it,
and then running a true tub-clean cycle on hot. People often report the “aha” moment when they wipe the gasket, look at the cloth,
and realize the odor wasn’t coming from the drum at all. The second “aha” is leaving the door open afterwardbecause a perfect clean
doesn’t matter if the washer stays damp for days.

Experience #2: “My washer smells fine… until I run a load. Then it smells like a basement.”

That pattern can point to the drain pathespecially if a drain pump filter is packed with lint and sludge or the washer isn’t
fully draining. People describe opening the little lower-front access panel, loosening the filter, and getting hit with a smell
that could knock over a houseplant. Once the filter is cleaned and the housing is wiped out, the odor often drops immediately.
Following up with a hot cleaning cycle helps flush the lines. If the smell persists after that, the next place to investigate is
the household drain/standpipe (sometimes the “washer smell” is really a drain smell that drifts back into the laundry area).

Experience #3: “I use a ton of detergent because my clothes are dirty. Why does that make it worse?”

This one surprises people. More detergent can mean more residueespecially in HE washers that use less water. Residue builds up
in the outer tub, hoses, and gasket area, creating a sticky layer that holds moisture and feeds odor. A common turnaround story:
switching to the correct HE detergent, measuring it carefully, reducing fabric softener, and adding a monthly tub-clean cycle.
People often notice their washer not only smells better, but drains better and leaves fewer suds behind. The biggest “habit shift”
is resisting the urge to pour detergent like it’s pancake syrup. Once the residue reduces, the musty smell usually fadesoften
within one or two cleaning cycles plus a week of better drying/venting.

Experience #4: “I did everything… and the odor came back a month later.”

Odor returning isn’t a failureit’s a reminder that washers are wet environments and need light maintenance. The people who get
long-term success usually do two things: (1) they keep the washer dry between loads (door open, gasket wiped), and (2) they schedule
a monthly cleaning cycle. A small routine beats heroic, once-a-year scrubbing every time. The bonus: your laundry room stops smelling
like you’re storing wet cardboard in there for fun.

Conclusion

Mold smell in a washing machine is fixable, and you don’t need to replace the washer out of spite.
The winning combo is: clean the places that stay wet (gasket, dispensers, filters), run a true hot cleaning cycle,
and then keep the interior dry between loads. Do that, and your washer goes back to smelling like… nothing.
Which is exactly the vibe we want from a household appliance.