How to Make a Bean Bag Chair: 13 Steps

A bean bag chair is basically the world’s most socially acceptable pile of fluff. It’s furniture that says,
“I have responsibilities… but I also have snacks.” The best part? You can make one yourself and tailor it to
your space, your style, and your preferred level of “sink-in-and-never-return.”

This guide walks you through a durable, comfy, washable bean bag chair with an outer cover (for cleaning)
and an inner liner (to keep the filling where it belongsinside the chair and not mysteriously migrating
through your house like tumbleweeds). We’ll also talk fabric, filling options, safety details, and a few
pro tricks that make the whole project feel less like a wrestling match with cloth.

What You’ll Make (and Why This Design Works)

We’re going for a classic “lounger” bean bag: soft enough to melt into, structured enough to sit up when
you’re gaming, reading, or pretending to be productive. The build uses:

• An inner liner that holds the filling (think: the vault).
• An outer cover with a zipper for easy removal and washing (think: the outfit).
• Reinforced seams because your bean bag will be loved… aggressively.

Materials and Tools

Fabric (Choose for Your Lifestyle, Not Your Fantasy Self)

• Outer cover (recommended): canvas/duck cloth, denim, corduroy, twill, upholstery fabric, or microsuede.
• Inner liner: sturdy muslin, cotton drill, or lightweight canvas (not stretchy, not flimsy).

If your home includes kids, pets, or a friend who “doesn’t know their own strength,” lean toward tighter
weaves and heavier weights. A bean bag is basically a hug that gets sat on. Constantly.

Filling Options

• Shredded foam: plush, quiet, supportive (often the “premium lounge” feel).
• Polystyrene beads: classic, lighter, easier to refillbut can be messy and noisy.
• Polyester fiberfill: softer, but may compress faster (best blended with foam).
• Stuffed animals / soft textiles: kid-friendly and great for storage (yes, your bean bag can moonlight as a toy closet).

Notions and Hardware

• One heavy-duty zipper for the outer cover (18–26 inches is a comfy range for filling and removal).
• Optional: a locking or child-resistant zipper for the inner liner (strongly recommended for homes with children).
• Matching thread (upholstery thread is a bonus for outer seams).

Tools

• Sewing machine (you can hand sew in a pinch, but your hands will file a complaint)
• Heavy-duty needle (size 16/100 for thicker fabrics)
• Fabric scissors or rotary cutter + mat
• Tape measure, ruler, fabric marker/chalk
• Pins or clips (clips are amazing for thick fabric)
• Iron (yes, ironing mattersfuture-you will thank you)
• Funnel or cardboard tube (for fillingespecially beads)

Size Planning (Quick, Practical, No Geometry Degree Required)

You can scale a bean bag chair up or down pretty easily. Here’s a simple way to think about it:

• Kids’ size: about 27–32 inches across when fluffed.
• Teen / small adult: about 33–38 inches across.
• Big lounge (adult): about 39–48 inches across.

If you’re unsure, build the outer cover a little bigger than you think. A slightly oversized cover feels
luxurious; a too-small cover feels like you made a decorative stress ball.

How to Make a Bean Bag Chair: 13 Steps

1. Step 1: Pick Your Fill First (It Affects Everything)

   Choose your filling before you finalize size. Foam is bulkier than beads; stuffed animals need a wide
   opening; beads flow like mischievous water. If you want a “sink-in” lounge, shredded foam (or a foam + fiber blend)
   is a strong choice. If you want lighter and classic “bean bag wobble,” beads deliver that vibe.

2. Step 2: Decide on Inner Liner + Outer Cover (Do BothSeriously)

   A liner keeps filling contained, makes refills easier, and lets you wash the outer cover without
   accidentally creating a blizzard of beads. If you do only one layer, you’ll eventually regret it
   during the first “zipper incident” or wash day.

3. Step 3: Draft a Simple 6-Panel Pattern

   A classic, comfy shape uses six identical curved panels. For a medium chair, start with a panel
   about 34–38 inches tall and 14–18 inches wide at the widest point.
   The panel looks like a long leaf or teardrop.

   Easy drafting trick: draw a vertical center line, mark your height, then mark half-width at the widest point,
   and sketch a smooth curve from top to bottom. Cut one paper panel, fold it in half, and trim until both sides match.
   That’s your template.

4. Step 4: Cut Fabric Pieces (Outer + Liner)

   Cut 6 panels from your outer fabric and 6 panels from liner fabric.
   Add seam allowance (typically 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch) around all sides.
   Mark the top and bottom of each panel so you don’t accidentally flip one and create a “modern art” bean bag.

5. Step 5: Sew Outer Panels into Two Halves

   With right sides together, sew three panels together along the long edges to create half the shell.
   Repeat for the other three panels. Backstitch at the start and end of every seambean bags get stress
   in all the places your jeans do.

6. Step 6: Reinforce Outer Seams (Because Life Happens)

   Reinforce seams with a second line of stitching or a zigzag/overcast stitch on raw edges.
   If your fabric frays, finish the edges now. This step is the difference between “long-lasting furniture”
   and “why is there thread in my popcorn?”

7. Step 7: Add the Zipper to the Outer Cover

   Choose one seam to become your opening. Instead of sewing it fully closed, install a zipper (18–26 inches works well).
   A longer zipper makes it easier to remove the cover and insert the liner without turning your living room into a wrestling ring.

   Tip: keep the zipper partially open while sewing so you can turn the cover right-side out without drama.

8. Step 8: Sew the Outer Cover Together

   With the zipper installed, sew the two outer halves together along the remaining long edges, forming the full shell.
   Go slow over thick intersections. If your machine complains, it’s not being dramaticthick fabric stacks are genuinely rude.

9. Step 9: Make the Inner Liner (Same Shape, Safer Closure)

   Sew the liner panels the same way as the outer cover. For the liner opening, you have options:

   • Locking zipper (best for refillable liners and safer storage of filling).
   • Small zippered fill port + stitched reinforcement around it.
   • Sewn shut after filling (simplest, but refills require seam ripping).

   If children are around, prioritize a closure that’s difficult for them to open. Tiny fill materials are not a toy.

10. Step 10: Turn Both Pieces Right-Side Out and Press

    Turn the outer cover right-side out through the zipper opening. Turn the liner right-side out through its opening.
    Press seams (yes, even if you don’t “iron”). Crisp seams make assembly easier and help the chair keep a cleaner shape.

11. Step 11: Fill the Liner (Mess-Minimizing Mode)

    For shredded foam: add handfuls, fluff, and repeat. For beads: use a funnel or a cardboard tube.
    Pro move: fill inside a large box or a clean bathtub with the drain closedeasy cleanup if anything escapes.

    Don’t overfill. A great bean bag has “give.” Aim for about 2/3 to 3/4 full, then adjust after you test-sit.
    If it’s too full, it feels like a boulder wearing fabric. Too empty, and it becomes a sad pancake.

12. Step 12: Secure the Liner Closure (Double-Check Like a Paranoid Genius)

    Close the liner securely. If you’re sewing it shut, stitch twice and reinforce the ends.
    If you’re using a zipper, zip fully and ensure it can’t slide open accidentally.
    This is the “future mess prevention” steptreat it with respect.

13. Step 13: Insert Liner into Outer Cover and Test for Comfort

    Stuff the filled liner into the outer cover and zip it closed. Shake and rotate the chair to distribute fill.
    Sit. Slouch. Do a dramatic flop (carefully). Then adjust: add more fill for support, remove some for deeper sink-in comfort.

    Optional upgrade: add a fabric handle on the outer cover so you can drag it around like a civilized adult instead of bear-hugging it.

Pro Tips for a Bean Bag That Actually Lasts

1) Choose washable outer fabric

Life spills. People spill. Pets are basically walking spill generators. A removable cover is the difference between “easy refresh”
and “I guess this chair is brown now.”

2) Reinforce stress points

The zipper ends and top/bottom panel tips take the most strain. Add a small patch of interfacing or a second seam line there.

3) Know your fill maintenance

Beads compress over time and may need occasional topping off. Foam can also settle, but fluffing and kneading often restores loft.
Build your liner closure so refilling is doable without a meltdown.

Safety Notes You Shouldn’t Skip

Bean bags are cozy, but the filling and openings deserve serious attentionespecially in homes with small children or pets.
Use a liner, keep closures secure, and treat loose fill like you’d treat loose batteries: not casually.

• Keep tiny fill (like beads) away from children during filling and refills.
• Make sure openings don’t “freely open” with normal pulling or wiggling.
• Never let infants sleep on a bean bag; it’s not a safe sleep surface.
• If you spill beads: vacuum immediately (and accept that you’ll still find one three weeks later in your sock).

Frequently Asked Questions

How much filling do I need?

It depends on size and fill type. Foam is sold by volume and expands; beads flow and pack differently.
The most reliable approach: buy a little extra, fill gradually, and stop when the chair supports you comfortably.

Can I make a “stuffed animal storage” bean bag?

Absolutely. Use a strong zipper, a roomy inner cavity (you can even skip loose filler), and let the cover become a soft storage solution.
It’s the rare project that cleans your floor while making your room cozier.

What’s the best fabric for pets?

Tight weaves like canvas, denim, or microfiber-style upholstery tend to resist snags better than loose weaves.
Avoid delicate textures if your cat believes all furniture is a personal scratching manifesto.

Real-World DIY Experiences (500+ Words of “What People Learn the Hard Way”)

Making a bean bag chair looks deceptively simple on paper: “sew panels, add filling, become a relaxed person.” In practice,
most DIYers discover a few memorable moments along the wayusually right when the project starts feeling too confident.
One common experience: underestimating how much difference fabric choice makes. A cute quilting cotton might look great on your
cutting table, but once filled and sat on, it can stretch, stress, and eventually complain at the seams. People who switch to
canvas, denim, twill, or upholstery fabric often report the chair instantly feels more “real furniture” and less “giant bean-shaped tote bag.”

Another classic moment happens during filling. Foam feels innocent because it’s quiet and cuddly, but it expands and clings.
DIYers often learn to fill slowly, pause to fluff, then fill againotherwise the liner becomes lumpy, with “Mount Foam” on one side
and “Sad Flat Prairie” on the other. Beads bring a different adventure: static. Many people end up filling in a bathtub or inside a
large cardboard box, because one small slip can create a confetti situation that your vacuum will talk about in therapy.
A funnel or cardboard tube becomes a hero here, and so does turning off fans and closing windows (beads are lightweight and absolutely
willing to relocate).

The zipper is where DIY bean bag chairs either become a lifelong favorite or a cautionary tale. People frequently discover that a
too-short zipper makes inserting the liner feel like stuffing a sleeping bag back into its original packagingpossible, but emotionally
expensive. A longer zipper tends to be the “why didn’t I do this sooner?” upgrade. Many also learn to reinforce zipper ends and stitch
carefully around thick layers; the first time a needle snaps, it’s usually because someone tried to power through a seam intersection
like it was a paper napkin. Going slow, using clips, and choosing a heavier needle turns that moment from chaos into competence.

Comfort tuning is another real-world lesson. A brand-new bean bag can feel too full at first, like it’s trying to politely refuse to
let you sink in. DIYers often fix this by removing a little fill, sitting again, and repeating until the chair supports the lower back
and shoulders without feeling stiff. And thentwo weeks latermany add a bit back once the fill settles. That “dial it in over time”
process is normal, and it’s part of why a refillable liner is so useful.

Finally, people often realize the bean bag chair becomes a magnet for the household. The chair you made “for the kids” suddenly becomes
the best seat for movie night. The chair you made “for gaming” becomes the nap headquarters. If there’s a universal DIY bean bag truth,
it’s this: once you build one comfortable enough, it won’t belong to you anymore. It will belong to whoever gets to it first.

Conclusion

A DIY bean bag chair is one of those projects that pays you back daily: custom comfort, washable practicality, and the satisfaction
of knowing you built the coziest “seat” in the room with your own hands. Keep it durable with a solid outer fabric, keep it sane with
a liner, and keep it comfortable by filling slowly and adjusting over time. Do that, and you’ll have a chair that doesn’t just look good
it becomes everyone’s favorite place to land.

SEO Tags